Orchid Care Sheets
(Downloadable files are available at the end of each care sheet)
Catasetinae Culture Sheet
Catasetinae plant culture is not difficult. All it takes is an understanding of the seasonal growth patterns. They are typically deciduous with strict growing and resting periods.
Early spring: Catasetinae begin their new growth in early spring. However, watering should wait until the new growth is at least 3” tall before beginning watering. At this time, try a “test” watering. Water the plant well one time. If it is ready to grow, the plant will grow 2-3”, or more, in just a week! If it does not, wait a month and try again. Don’t water too early. It is better to wait to water than start watering too soon.
Mid-Season: Water regularly, never letting the media completely dry out.
Late Season: Simulate the arrival of the dry season. Around October 15, begin extending the interval between waterings. By December 1, stop watering, altogether.
Dormancy: Watering during dormancy should only be done sparingly. Usually, a single light irrigation once every four weeks, or so, is sufficient to restore the bulbs.
Light levels: Catasetinae grow best with light levels of 3,000 to 6,000 foot-candles, or one-half to three-fourths full sun.
Temperatures: During the growing period, daytime temperatures of 80-100° F and nighttime temperatures of 60-65° F are beneficial. During dormancy, temperatures can be reduced to 55° F at night, with daytime temperatures of 70-85° F.
Humidity should be high: 50 to 60 percent, or more. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel only partially filled with water so that the plants do not sit in the water.
Air movement: Catasetinae enjoy abundant air movement. If you are growing in a greenhouse or indoors use air circulating fans.
Fertilizer: We use fertilizer injectors set at the rate of 100 ppm of nitrogen. This rate can generally be attained using 1/2 teaspoon of your favorite water-soluble fertilizer per gallon of water. Frequent applications of a dilute concentrations of fertilizer are more effective and safer than occasional applications of strong concentrations.
Repotting and Dividing: Repotting is necessary when the plants protrude over the edge of the pot or the potting medium is beginning to break down and drain poorly (usually after two to three years). We use New Zealand sphagnum moss with the bottom 1/3 of the pot filled with XL bark nuggets. However, this genus is not too particular with what it is potted in, and any well-drained media will work. Always use the smallest pot possible that will only allow for 2-3 years of growth. Repotting should be timed to coincide with dormancy. Unlike most orchid plants, Catasetinae can do well when divided into 1-2 bulb divisions, however, fantastic specimen plants can be grown as large clumps if not divided.
Insect pests: Catasetinae are generally pest free. However, spider mites are attracted to the soft underside of the leaves of these plants. Control spider mites by keeping humidity high or spraying with a miticide containing abamectin.
Catasetinae plant culture is not difficult. All it takes is an understanding of the seasonal growth patterns. They are typically deciduous with strict growing and resting periods.
Early spring: Catasetinae begin their new growth in early spring. However, watering should wait until the new growth is at least 3” tall before beginning watering. At this time, try a “test” watering. Water the plant well one time. If it is ready to grow, the plant will grow 2-3”, or more, in just a week! If it does not, wait a month and try again. Don’t water too early. It is better to wait to water than start watering too soon.
Mid-Season: Water regularly, never letting the media completely dry out.
Late Season: Simulate the arrival of the dry season. Around October 15, begin extending the interval between waterings. By December 1, stop watering, altogether.
Dormancy: Watering during dormancy should only be done sparingly. Usually, a single light irrigation once every four weeks, or so, is sufficient to restore the bulbs.
Light levels: Catasetinae grow best with light levels of 3,000 to 6,000 foot-candles, or one-half to three-fourths full sun.
Temperatures: During the growing period, daytime temperatures of 80-100° F and nighttime temperatures of 60-65° F are beneficial. During dormancy, temperatures can be reduced to 55° F at night, with daytime temperatures of 70-85° F.
Humidity should be high: 50 to 60 percent, or more. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel only partially filled with water so that the plants do not sit in the water.
Air movement: Catasetinae enjoy abundant air movement. If you are growing in a greenhouse or indoors use air circulating fans.
Fertilizer: We use fertilizer injectors set at the rate of 100 ppm of nitrogen. This rate can generally be attained using 1/2 teaspoon of your favorite water-soluble fertilizer per gallon of water. Frequent applications of a dilute concentrations of fertilizer are more effective and safer than occasional applications of strong concentrations.
Repotting and Dividing: Repotting is necessary when the plants protrude over the edge of the pot or the potting medium is beginning to break down and drain poorly (usually after two to three years). We use New Zealand sphagnum moss with the bottom 1/3 of the pot filled with XL bark nuggets. However, this genus is not too particular with what it is potted in, and any well-drained media will work. Always use the smallest pot possible that will only allow for 2-3 years of growth. Repotting should be timed to coincide with dormancy. Unlike most orchid plants, Catasetinae can do well when divided into 1-2 bulb divisions, however, fantastic specimen plants can be grown as large clumps if not divided.
Insect pests: Catasetinae are generally pest free. However, spider mites are attracted to the soft underside of the leaves of these plants. Control spider mites by keeping humidity high or spraying with a miticide containing abamectin.
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Cattleya Culture Sheet
Cattleyas are among the most popular and iconic of all the orchids. Cattleyas and their related hybrids come in many colors, shapes, forms, sizes and blooming seasons. (With a careful selection of around 20-25 plants, a hobbyist can have Cattleyas blooming year-round!) Culture varies only slightly among most of these. Like many other orchids, Cattleyas are epiphytes (growing on trees and/or rock surfaces, not in the soil). They have water-storage organs, called pseudobulbs, and large, fleshy roots covered with a spongy, water-retentive velamen allowing them to survive periods of dry weather in between rain events, thus, they need to be potted in free-draining media.
The following is a general guide to basic Cattleya culture:
Light is the most important factor in growing and flowering Cattleyas, whether in a greenhouse or in the home. Bright light to some sun should be given to the plants, with no direct sun in the middle of the day. This means an east, shaded south (as with a sheer curtain) or west window in the home, and 50 to 70 percent full sun in a greenhouse (3,000 to 5,000 foot-candles). Leaves should be a medium green color.
Temperatures should be 55 to 60 F at night and 70 to 85 F during the day. A 15- to 20-degree differential between day and night is recommended, especially for mature plants. Higher day temperatures can be tolerated (up to 95 F), if humidity, air circulation and shading are increased.
Water and Fertilizer should be considered together as, water carries fertilizer into the root zone. Mature Cattleyas need to dry out thoroughly before being watered again. Seedlings need more constant moisture. If in doubt, it's best to wait a day or two until watering. We fertilize with every watering using a weak fertilizer solution of 100 PPM nitrogen; this equates to ½ tsp in a gallon of water. In the summer when days are long and warm and the plants are in active growth, we water more, usually two times a week. During the cooler months watering once a week is generally satisfactory. Before watering always check that the potting media has dried out sufficiently. Once a month leach the pots with plain water twice, about an hour apart, to reduce salt buildup. Water below 50oF can injure plants and roots, as will “soft” water.
Humidity should be maintained between 50 and 80 percent for Cattleyas. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel, only partially filled with water so that the plants do not sit in the water. Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal or bacterial disease, especially if high humidity or cool temperatures exist.
Potting is necessary when the rhizome of the plants protrudes over the edge of the pot or the potting medium is beginning to break down and drain poorly (usually after two to three years). We wait to repot until the new roots just begin to sprout from the rhizome. Mature Cattleyas are usually potted in coarser potting material than are seedlings. Until a plant has at least six mature pseudobulbs, it generally should be put into a larger pot and not divided. If dividing a plant, three to five pseudobulbs per division are required. Do not overpot! Select a pot that will allow for approximately two years of growth before crowding the pot. Keep the plant humid, shaded and dry at the roots until new root growth is seen.
Cattleyas are among the most popular and iconic of all the orchids. Cattleyas and their related hybrids come in many colors, shapes, forms, sizes and blooming seasons. (With a careful selection of around 20-25 plants, a hobbyist can have Cattleyas blooming year-round!) Culture varies only slightly among most of these. Like many other orchids, Cattleyas are epiphytes (growing on trees and/or rock surfaces, not in the soil). They have water-storage organs, called pseudobulbs, and large, fleshy roots covered with a spongy, water-retentive velamen allowing them to survive periods of dry weather in between rain events, thus, they need to be potted in free-draining media.
The following is a general guide to basic Cattleya culture:
Light is the most important factor in growing and flowering Cattleyas, whether in a greenhouse or in the home. Bright light to some sun should be given to the plants, with no direct sun in the middle of the day. This means an east, shaded south (as with a sheer curtain) or west window in the home, and 50 to 70 percent full sun in a greenhouse (3,000 to 5,000 foot-candles). Leaves should be a medium green color.
Temperatures should be 55 to 60 F at night and 70 to 85 F during the day. A 15- to 20-degree differential between day and night is recommended, especially for mature plants. Higher day temperatures can be tolerated (up to 95 F), if humidity, air circulation and shading are increased.
Water and Fertilizer should be considered together as, water carries fertilizer into the root zone. Mature Cattleyas need to dry out thoroughly before being watered again. Seedlings need more constant moisture. If in doubt, it's best to wait a day or two until watering. We fertilize with every watering using a weak fertilizer solution of 100 PPM nitrogen; this equates to ½ tsp in a gallon of water. In the summer when days are long and warm and the plants are in active growth, we water more, usually two times a week. During the cooler months watering once a week is generally satisfactory. Before watering always check that the potting media has dried out sufficiently. Once a month leach the pots with plain water twice, about an hour apart, to reduce salt buildup. Water below 50oF can injure plants and roots, as will “soft” water.
Humidity should be maintained between 50 and 80 percent for Cattleyas. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel, only partially filled with water so that the plants do not sit in the water. Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal or bacterial disease, especially if high humidity or cool temperatures exist.
Potting is necessary when the rhizome of the plants protrudes over the edge of the pot or the potting medium is beginning to break down and drain poorly (usually after two to three years). We wait to repot until the new roots just begin to sprout from the rhizome. Mature Cattleyas are usually potted in coarser potting material than are seedlings. Until a plant has at least six mature pseudobulbs, it generally should be put into a larger pot and not divided. If dividing a plant, three to five pseudobulbs per division are required. Do not overpot! Select a pot that will allow for approximately two years of growth before crowding the pot. Keep the plant humid, shaded and dry at the roots until new root growth is seen.
| cattleya_culture_sheet.docx |
Bulbophyllum Culture Sheet
LIGHT
Bulbophyllum orchids thrive in bright, indirect or shaded light, typically requiring 1,000-3,000 foot-candles (about 10,000-30,000 lumens). Direct midday sun will burn the leaves.
In a greenhouse or south facing windows, shade cloth is required to reach the ideal light intensity. In the home, east, north, or west windows where they will get about 1-5 hours of bright light are ideal.
Many types of Bulbophyllum orchids will grow well under artificial light. Use a light source that when placed about 1-2 feet above the plants emits >10,000 lumens/m2 for 11-14 hours daily.
TEMPERATURE
Temperatures should always be warm for most Bulbophyllum orchids 60F-90F (15.5C-32.2C).
WATER
Water should be liberally applied. Plants should not be allowed to dry out completely. Potting mix should be perpetually moist, but not soggy, and dry only slightly between waterings.
HUMIDITY
Humidity should be maintained at 60% to 90%. The more humid you can make it for these plants, the better they will perform. Air circulation is vital to help prevent damage to leaves by fungi.
FERTILIZING
Fertilize on a regular schedule when the plants are actively growing. Many plants will perpetually grow, meaning that you should fertilize at all times of the year. Use a ¼ strength dose (about 100 ppm N, if using a fertilizer injector) of a well-balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10).
POTTING
Because these equatorial plants tend to grow year-round, anytime is the right time for repotting. New roots will be produced quickly at the time of new growth, and plants will experience minimal setback. It is best to grow these plants potted in either sphagnum, very fine orchid bark mix, or some combination thereof. Never cover the pseudobulbs with bark or moss. Use plastic pots, as terracotta dries out too quickly.
Plants with extended space between the pseudobulbs are best grown mounted to cork or tree fern branches with some sphagnum.
LIGHT
Bulbophyllum orchids thrive in bright, indirect or shaded light, typically requiring 1,000-3,000 foot-candles (about 10,000-30,000 lumens). Direct midday sun will burn the leaves.
In a greenhouse or south facing windows, shade cloth is required to reach the ideal light intensity. In the home, east, north, or west windows where they will get about 1-5 hours of bright light are ideal.
Many types of Bulbophyllum orchids will grow well under artificial light. Use a light source that when placed about 1-2 feet above the plants emits >10,000 lumens/m2 for 11-14 hours daily.
TEMPERATURE
Temperatures should always be warm for most Bulbophyllum orchids 60F-90F (15.5C-32.2C).
WATER
Water should be liberally applied. Plants should not be allowed to dry out completely. Potting mix should be perpetually moist, but not soggy, and dry only slightly between waterings.
HUMIDITY
Humidity should be maintained at 60% to 90%. The more humid you can make it for these plants, the better they will perform. Air circulation is vital to help prevent damage to leaves by fungi.
FERTILIZING
Fertilize on a regular schedule when the plants are actively growing. Many plants will perpetually grow, meaning that you should fertilize at all times of the year. Use a ¼ strength dose (about 100 ppm N, if using a fertilizer injector) of a well-balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10).
POTTING
Because these equatorial plants tend to grow year-round, anytime is the right time for repotting. New roots will be produced quickly at the time of new growth, and plants will experience minimal setback. It is best to grow these plants potted in either sphagnum, very fine orchid bark mix, or some combination thereof. Never cover the pseudobulbs with bark or moss. Use plastic pots, as terracotta dries out too quickly.
Plants with extended space between the pseudobulbs are best grown mounted to cork or tree fern branches with some sphagnum.
| bulbophyllum_culture_sheet.docx |
Lycaste Culture Sheet
Lycastes are a genus of about 50 species, distributed from Mexico to Bolivia with one species in the Caribbean.
Light is an important factor in growing and flowering deciduous Lycastes, whether in a greenhouse or in the home. Bright light should be given to the plants, with no direct sun. This means an east, shaded south (as with a sheer curtain) or west window in the home, and 50 to 70 percent full sun in a greenhouse (3,000 to 5,000 foot-candles). Leaves should be a medium green color.
Temperatures should be between 60°F at night and up to 90°F during the day in periods of active growth. A 15° to 20° differential between day and night is recommended, especially for mature plants. Higher day temperatures can be tolerated (up to 95°F), if humidity, air circulation and shading are increased. During dormancy, when the plants have lost their leaves, nighttime temperature can drop to as low as 50°F.
Water should be applied freely during active growth (usually summer) for all Lycastes. For mature plants, the potting medium should just begin to dry out between waterings. Conversely, during the dormancy period, watering just enough to keep the pseudobulbs from shriveling too much is essential to initiate blooming. Seedlings need more constant moisture. Water should be kept off the leaves, and especially out of new growths, if possible, to avoid rot or leaf spotting.
Fertilizer regularly during active growth. We fertilize with every watering using a weak fertilizer solution of 100 PPM nitrogen; this equates to about ½ tsp in a gallon of water. In the summer when days are long and warm and the plants are in active growth, we water more, usually two to three times a week. If in doubt, it's best to wait a day or two until watering. Once a month leach the pots with plain water twice, about an hour apart, to reduce salt buildup. Water below 50oF can injure plants and roots, as will “soft” water.
Humidity should be maintained between 50 and 80 percent for Lycastes. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel, only partially filled with water so that the plants do not sit in the water. Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, especially if high humidity or cool temperatures exist.
Potting is necessary when the pseudobulbs begin to protrude over the edge of the pot or the potting medium is beginning to break down and drain poorly (usually after two to three years). We wait to repot until the new roots just begin to sprout from the rhizome. Mature Lycastes are usually potted in coarser potting material than are seedlings. Until a plant has at least four mature pseudobulbs, it generally should be put into a larger pot and not divided. If dividing a plant, at least two pseudobulbs per division are required. Do not overpot! Select a pot that will allow for approximately two years of growth before crowding the pot. Keep the plant humid, shaded and dry at the roots until new root growth is seen.
Lycastes are a genus of about 50 species, distributed from Mexico to Bolivia with one species in the Caribbean.
Light is an important factor in growing and flowering deciduous Lycastes, whether in a greenhouse or in the home. Bright light should be given to the plants, with no direct sun. This means an east, shaded south (as with a sheer curtain) or west window in the home, and 50 to 70 percent full sun in a greenhouse (3,000 to 5,000 foot-candles). Leaves should be a medium green color.
Temperatures should be between 60°F at night and up to 90°F during the day in periods of active growth. A 15° to 20° differential between day and night is recommended, especially for mature plants. Higher day temperatures can be tolerated (up to 95°F), if humidity, air circulation and shading are increased. During dormancy, when the plants have lost their leaves, nighttime temperature can drop to as low as 50°F.
Water should be applied freely during active growth (usually summer) for all Lycastes. For mature plants, the potting medium should just begin to dry out between waterings. Conversely, during the dormancy period, watering just enough to keep the pseudobulbs from shriveling too much is essential to initiate blooming. Seedlings need more constant moisture. Water should be kept off the leaves, and especially out of new growths, if possible, to avoid rot or leaf spotting.
Fertilizer regularly during active growth. We fertilize with every watering using a weak fertilizer solution of 100 PPM nitrogen; this equates to about ½ tsp in a gallon of water. In the summer when days are long and warm and the plants are in active growth, we water more, usually two to three times a week. If in doubt, it's best to wait a day or two until watering. Once a month leach the pots with plain water twice, about an hour apart, to reduce salt buildup. Water below 50oF can injure plants and roots, as will “soft” water.
Humidity should be maintained between 50 and 80 percent for Lycastes. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel, only partially filled with water so that the plants do not sit in the water. Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, especially if high humidity or cool temperatures exist.
Potting is necessary when the pseudobulbs begin to protrude over the edge of the pot or the potting medium is beginning to break down and drain poorly (usually after two to three years). We wait to repot until the new roots just begin to sprout from the rhizome. Mature Lycastes are usually potted in coarser potting material than are seedlings. Until a plant has at least four mature pseudobulbs, it generally should be put into a larger pot and not divided. If dividing a plant, at least two pseudobulbs per division are required. Do not overpot! Select a pot that will allow for approximately two years of growth before crowding the pot. Keep the plant humid, shaded and dry at the roots until new root growth is seen.
| deciduous_lycaste_pffff3.pdf |