Orchid Care Sheets
(Downloadable files are available at the end of each care sheet)
Catasetinae Culture Sheet
This unusual group of orchids, which consists mainly of the genera Catasetum, Cychnoches, Mormodes, Galeandra, and Clowesia, offers fascinating, waxy flowers that often have the peculiar habit of discharging their pollen masses (pollinia) onto pollinating insects. Almost always deciduous, the pseudobulbous plants have strict growing and resting periods. Most flower before entering a dormant period when they drop their leaves, while many can also flower additional times throughout the year. Many of the genera have remarkably different male and female flowers that can be born on the same or separate inflorescences.
Catasetinae plant culture is not difficult. All it takes is an understanding of the seasonal growth patterns.
Early spring: Catasetinae begin their new growth in early spring. However, watering should wait until the new growth has well-developed new roots to an approximate length of 3-5” before you begin watering. Don’t water too early. Wait to water until the new roots are well-developed. It is better to wait to water than start watering too soon.
Mid-Season: Once the new roots are sufficiently developed and watering can begin, a surprising amount of growth will occur in the next 3-4 months; often the plants will double in size. Due to this, the plants require constant moisture, regular fertilization and light levels at or above those suggested for cattleyas. In most cases, irrigation will be needed 2 or 3 times a week with plenty of appropriate fertilizer.
Late Season: Sometime in late autumn, generally by the 15th of November, the plants will begin to enter the dormancy phase. The plant will signal the beginning of dormancy when the leaves begin yellowing and dropping off. At this time stop fertilizing and reduce watering by at least 50%. When most of the leaves have yellowed or fallen off, stop watering altogether. If the most leaves have not yet yellowed or fallen off by the 1st of January, go ahead and stop watering completely.
Note: Watering during dormancy should only be done if the plant shrivels severely. Usually a single irrigation is sufficient to restore the bulbs. (Don't be in a hurry to water; waiting will not hurt the plant)
Summary:
Light levels: Catasetinae grow best with light levels of 3,000 to 6,000 foot-candles, or one-half to three-fourths full sun. However, the plants are widely adaptable and can do well with light levels as low as 1500 foot-candles.
Temperatures reflect the fact these orchids are native to hot tropical areas and grow during the rainy summer months. During this growing period, day temperatures of 80° to 100° F and night temperatures of 60° to 65° F are beneficial. After growths mature, temperatures can be reduced to 55° F at night, with day temperatures of 70° to 85° F.
Water is a critical factor for the production of large pseudobulbs that result in best flowering. A great quantity of water must be stored by the plant in a relatively short growing season. Water heavily as new leaves are forming. As the pseudobulb matures, gradually reduce watering frequency. Leaves will yellow and drop. At this time, watering should be stopped completely until new growth begins. Water during this dormant period only if the pseudobulbs shrivel severely.
Humidity should be 40 to 60 percent. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel only partially filled with water so that the plants do not sit in the water. Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal or bacterial disease, especially if high humidity or cool temperatures exist.
Air movement: Catasetinae enjoy abundant air movement. If you are growing in a greenhouse or indoors use air circulating fans.
Potting mix and mounting: For seedlings up to a 3” pot size we use New Zealand sphagnum moss with the bottom 1/3 of the pot filled with Styrofoam peanuts or XL bark nuggets. For larger plants we use pots appropriate to the size of the plant allowing for 2-3 years growth (do not overpot; use the smallest pot that will work). For the larger plants, we have been using a 3:1 of mix of fine Kiwi Bark® or Classic Orchiata® and medium-large Perlite. However, this genus is not too particular with what it is potted in, and any well-drained media will work well. Catasetinae also do well mounted on bark with sphagnum moss to retain moisture during the active growing season.
Fertilizer: When in active growth, regularly use one teaspoon of your favorite water-soluble fertilizer per gallon of water. Frequent applications of a dilute concentrations of fertilizer are more effective than occasional applications of strong concentrations.
Repotting and Dividing: Repotting is necessary when the plants protrude over the edge of the pot or the potting medium is beginning to break down and drain poorly (usually after two to three years). Repotting should be timed to coincide with the initiation of new growth, usually in the spring when new growth is just starting to develop and before the new roots start to show. (Remember no watering until the roots are 3-5” long). Unlike most orchid plants, Catasetinae can do well when divided into 1-2 bulb pieces, however, fantastic specimen plants can be grown as very large clumps if not divided. Divisions, if desired, are made by cutting with a sterile tool or by pulling the bulbs apart.
Containers: We prefer to grow in plastic pots or mounted on tree bark, however clay pots and baskets will work. Catasetinae do not like to be over-potted; select a pot size that will allow for 2-3 years of growth.
Insect pests: Catasetinae are generally pest free. However spider mites are attracted to the soft underside of the leaves of these plants. Control spider mites by keeping humidity high or spraying with recommended miticides.
This unusual group of orchids, which consists mainly of the genera Catasetum, Cychnoches, Mormodes, Galeandra, and Clowesia, offers fascinating, waxy flowers that often have the peculiar habit of discharging their pollen masses (pollinia) onto pollinating insects. Almost always deciduous, the pseudobulbous plants have strict growing and resting periods. Most flower before entering a dormant period when they drop their leaves, while many can also flower additional times throughout the year. Many of the genera have remarkably different male and female flowers that can be born on the same or separate inflorescences.
Catasetinae plant culture is not difficult. All it takes is an understanding of the seasonal growth patterns.
Early spring: Catasetinae begin their new growth in early spring. However, watering should wait until the new growth has well-developed new roots to an approximate length of 3-5” before you begin watering. Don’t water too early. Wait to water until the new roots are well-developed. It is better to wait to water than start watering too soon.
Mid-Season: Once the new roots are sufficiently developed and watering can begin, a surprising amount of growth will occur in the next 3-4 months; often the plants will double in size. Due to this, the plants require constant moisture, regular fertilization and light levels at or above those suggested for cattleyas. In most cases, irrigation will be needed 2 or 3 times a week with plenty of appropriate fertilizer.
Late Season: Sometime in late autumn, generally by the 15th of November, the plants will begin to enter the dormancy phase. The plant will signal the beginning of dormancy when the leaves begin yellowing and dropping off. At this time stop fertilizing and reduce watering by at least 50%. When most of the leaves have yellowed or fallen off, stop watering altogether. If the most leaves have not yet yellowed or fallen off by the 1st of January, go ahead and stop watering completely.
Note: Watering during dormancy should only be done if the plant shrivels severely. Usually a single irrigation is sufficient to restore the bulbs. (Don't be in a hurry to water; waiting will not hurt the plant)
Summary:
- As new growth develops in late spring, wait to water until the new roots are well-developed and are 3” to 5” long.
- Irrigate and fertilize frequently while the plants are in active growth.
- Stop fertilization and reduce irrigation by 50% by mid-November.
- Stop watering by January 1.
Light levels: Catasetinae grow best with light levels of 3,000 to 6,000 foot-candles, or one-half to three-fourths full sun. However, the plants are widely adaptable and can do well with light levels as low as 1500 foot-candles.
Temperatures reflect the fact these orchids are native to hot tropical areas and grow during the rainy summer months. During this growing period, day temperatures of 80° to 100° F and night temperatures of 60° to 65° F are beneficial. After growths mature, temperatures can be reduced to 55° F at night, with day temperatures of 70° to 85° F.
Water is a critical factor for the production of large pseudobulbs that result in best flowering. A great quantity of water must be stored by the plant in a relatively short growing season. Water heavily as new leaves are forming. As the pseudobulb matures, gradually reduce watering frequency. Leaves will yellow and drop. At this time, watering should be stopped completely until new growth begins. Water during this dormant period only if the pseudobulbs shrivel severely.
Humidity should be 40 to 60 percent. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel only partially filled with water so that the plants do not sit in the water. Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal or bacterial disease, especially if high humidity or cool temperatures exist.
Air movement: Catasetinae enjoy abundant air movement. If you are growing in a greenhouse or indoors use air circulating fans.
Potting mix and mounting: For seedlings up to a 3” pot size we use New Zealand sphagnum moss with the bottom 1/3 of the pot filled with Styrofoam peanuts or XL bark nuggets. For larger plants we use pots appropriate to the size of the plant allowing for 2-3 years growth (do not overpot; use the smallest pot that will work). For the larger plants, we have been using a 3:1 of mix of fine Kiwi Bark® or Classic Orchiata® and medium-large Perlite. However, this genus is not too particular with what it is potted in, and any well-drained media will work well. Catasetinae also do well mounted on bark with sphagnum moss to retain moisture during the active growing season.
Fertilizer: When in active growth, regularly use one teaspoon of your favorite water-soluble fertilizer per gallon of water. Frequent applications of a dilute concentrations of fertilizer are more effective than occasional applications of strong concentrations.
Repotting and Dividing: Repotting is necessary when the plants protrude over the edge of the pot or the potting medium is beginning to break down and drain poorly (usually after two to three years). Repotting should be timed to coincide with the initiation of new growth, usually in the spring when new growth is just starting to develop and before the new roots start to show. (Remember no watering until the roots are 3-5” long). Unlike most orchid plants, Catasetinae can do well when divided into 1-2 bulb pieces, however, fantastic specimen plants can be grown as very large clumps if not divided. Divisions, if desired, are made by cutting with a sterile tool or by pulling the bulbs apart.
Containers: We prefer to grow in plastic pots or mounted on tree bark, however clay pots and baskets will work. Catasetinae do not like to be over-potted; select a pot size that will allow for 2-3 years of growth.
Insect pests: Catasetinae are generally pest free. However spider mites are attracted to the soft underside of the leaves of these plants. Control spider mites by keeping humidity high or spraying with recommended miticides.
catasetum_culture_sheet.docx | |
File Size: | 105 kb |
File Type: | docx |
Cattleya Culture Sheet
Cattleyas are among the most popular and iconic of all the orchids. Cattleyas and their related hybrids come in many colors, shapes, forms, sizes and blooming seasons. (With a careful selection of around 20-25 plants, a hobbyist can have cattleyas blooming year-round!) Culture varies only slightly among most of these. Like many other orchids, cattleyas are epiphytes (growing on trees and/or rock surfaces, not in the soil). They have water-storage organs, called pseudobulbs, and large, fleshy roots covered with a spongy, water-retentive velamen allowing them to survive periods of dry weather in between rain events, thus, they need to be potted in free-draining media.
The following is a general guide to basic Cattleya culture:
Light is the most important factor in growing and flowering cattleyas, whether in a greenhouse or in the home. Bright light to some sun should be given to the plants, with no direct sun in the middle of the day. This means an east, shaded south (as with a sheer curtain) or west window in the home, and 50 to 70 percent full sun in a greenhouse (3,000 to 5,000 foot-candles). Leaves should be a medium green color.
Temperatures should be 55 to 60 F at night and 70 to 85 F during the day. Seedlings should have night temperatures five to 10 degrees higher. A 15- to 20-degree differential between day and night is recommended, especially for mature plants. Higher day temperatures can be tolerated (up to 95 F), if humidity, air circulation and shading are increased.
Water and Fertilizer should be considered together as, water carries fertilizer into the root zone. Mature cattleyas need to dry out thoroughly before being watered again. Seedlings need more constant moisture. If in doubt, it's best to wait a day or two until watering. We fertilize with every watering using a weak fertilizer solution of 100 PPM nitrogen; this equates to ½ tsp in a gallon of water. In the summer when days are long and warm and the plants are in active growth, we water more, usually two times a week. However during August we may water up to three times a week. During the cooler months watering once a week is generally satisfactory. Before watering we always check that the potting media has dried out sufficiently. Once a month we leach the pots with plain water twice, about an hour apart, to reduce salt buildup. Water below 50oF can injure plants and roots, as will “soft” water.
Humidity should be maintained between 50 and 80 percent for cattleyas. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel, only partially filled with water so that the plants do not sit in the water. Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal or bacterial disease, especially if high humidity or cool temperatures exist.
Potting is necessary when the rhizome of the plants protrudes over the edge of the pot or the potting medium is beginning to break down and drain poorly (usually after two to three years). We wait to repot until the new roots just begin to sprout from the rhizome. Mature cattleyas are usually potted in coarser potting material than are seedlings. Until a plant has at least six mature pseudobulbs, it generally should be put into a larger pot and not divided. If dividing a plant, three to five pseudobulbs per division are required. Do not overpot! Select a pot that will allow for approximately two years of growth before crowding the pot. Keep the plant humid, shaded and dry at the roots until new root growth is seen.
Cattleyas are among the most popular and iconic of all the orchids. Cattleyas and their related hybrids come in many colors, shapes, forms, sizes and blooming seasons. (With a careful selection of around 20-25 plants, a hobbyist can have cattleyas blooming year-round!) Culture varies only slightly among most of these. Like many other orchids, cattleyas are epiphytes (growing on trees and/or rock surfaces, not in the soil). They have water-storage organs, called pseudobulbs, and large, fleshy roots covered with a spongy, water-retentive velamen allowing them to survive periods of dry weather in between rain events, thus, they need to be potted in free-draining media.
The following is a general guide to basic Cattleya culture:
Light is the most important factor in growing and flowering cattleyas, whether in a greenhouse or in the home. Bright light to some sun should be given to the plants, with no direct sun in the middle of the day. This means an east, shaded south (as with a sheer curtain) or west window in the home, and 50 to 70 percent full sun in a greenhouse (3,000 to 5,000 foot-candles). Leaves should be a medium green color.
Temperatures should be 55 to 60 F at night and 70 to 85 F during the day. Seedlings should have night temperatures five to 10 degrees higher. A 15- to 20-degree differential between day and night is recommended, especially for mature plants. Higher day temperatures can be tolerated (up to 95 F), if humidity, air circulation and shading are increased.
Water and Fertilizer should be considered together as, water carries fertilizer into the root zone. Mature cattleyas need to dry out thoroughly before being watered again. Seedlings need more constant moisture. If in doubt, it's best to wait a day or two until watering. We fertilize with every watering using a weak fertilizer solution of 100 PPM nitrogen; this equates to ½ tsp in a gallon of water. In the summer when days are long and warm and the plants are in active growth, we water more, usually two times a week. However during August we may water up to three times a week. During the cooler months watering once a week is generally satisfactory. Before watering we always check that the potting media has dried out sufficiently. Once a month we leach the pots with plain water twice, about an hour apart, to reduce salt buildup. Water below 50oF can injure plants and roots, as will “soft” water.
Humidity should be maintained between 50 and 80 percent for cattleyas. This can be provided in the home by placing the plants on trays of gravel, only partially filled with water so that the plants do not sit in the water. Air should always be moving around the plants to prevent fungal or bacterial disease, especially if high humidity or cool temperatures exist.
Potting is necessary when the rhizome of the plants protrudes over the edge of the pot or the potting medium is beginning to break down and drain poorly (usually after two to three years). We wait to repot until the new roots just begin to sprout from the rhizome. Mature cattleyas are usually potted in coarser potting material than are seedlings. Until a plant has at least six mature pseudobulbs, it generally should be put into a larger pot and not divided. If dividing a plant, three to five pseudobulbs per division are required. Do not overpot! Select a pot that will allow for approximately two years of growth before crowding the pot. Keep the plant humid, shaded and dry at the roots until new root growth is seen.
cattleya_culture_sheet.docx | |
File Size: | 141 kb |
File Type: | docx |